Some, who have been writing about books and reading since the mid-noughties will remember the old bookmarks-at-dawn-debacle circa 2006. (The ‘professional’ aggressor, one Ms Cooke, asserted ‘Deliver us from these latter-day Pooters’.) Well now it seems the foodie circuit has finally caught up. Only this time it will be real knives unleashed. ‘The sniping of waggish bloggers is often more like horseflies on mules.’ says Tom Harrow in Intelligent Life. Do give it a read if you feel like a laugh and love the warm glow of déjà vu. You can use your linen napkin to mop up your tears.